Mount Layla: Got me on my knees

Mountaineering is an inherently dangerous sport. Never more has this been highlighted than by the recent death of the legendary mountaineer, Ueli Steck, who was widely admired for his methodical approach to risk, as well as his numerous and unfathomably impressive speed ascents in the Alps and Himalayas. No doubt the biggest name in alpinism of this generation. If it can happen to him, you damn well know it can happen to anyone.

With this in mind, when the alarm went off at 1am and the temperature felt well above zero, confirmed by the sound of nearby running water, the original plan needed some reconsideration. We were camped at around 2800m just off the heavily crevassed Layla Glacier, a beautiful part of the Caucasus (one of many) and a good 8 hours hike from the nearest settlement, and indeed other person. Being early in the season with fresh snow only a few days before, it had been a long hard day breaking trail the day before, and if we were to summit we had another 1200m ascent in similar conditions ahead of us, albeit without the full packs.

Mt Layla, whose name alone inspires intrigue, would have been our first summit in the Caucasus, so making the decision not to climb wasn’t one that was taken lightly. It is always disappointing to turn your back on your goal. But was it worth the effort? I'll let you decide.

Read the technical report here.

A lone signpost at Layla pass. A recent initiative by the local tourist board, not that there’s a path to go with it though.

Not a bad place to spend the evening. Completely alone in the valley.

Listening out for avalanches on the opposite slopes.

Layla Glacier from camp.

The almighty Mount Ushba, always looking over us on the approach, will have to wait for another time!